The complete differential. Center and front/rear differentials are similar in parts and the same operation. Shims and different viscocity oils change the characteristics of the differential.
Precision Shims are used as compensators to absorb tolerances between mating components. They significantly reduce manufacturing costs by eliminating the need for each component to be precision machined in order to achieve the proper fit and function of the total assembly. The breakdown of the differential shows you the internal parts to the diff. I have included the center diff style spur gear and the end diff style to show the difference.
Shims are used to move the ring gear closer to the pinion to decrease backlash. Use shims to move the ring gear farther from the pinion gear to increase backlash.
While certain brands of shims are of excellent quality and evenness in their thickness throughout, like all commercial precut shims, they are only guaranteed accurate in their marked thicknesses from 0.001" to 0.025".
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Most transmitters are only compatible with receivers of the same manufacturer. Some will recognize different brands of receivers during binding. Some manufacturers have slower (for hobbyists) and faster (for racing) transmitters and receivers to meet different demands.
Plug the bind cable that came with the car or radio into the channel with "Bind" beside it on the receiver. Turn on the vehicle's. Power. And you'll notice the red flashing light on the receiver. The receiver is in "Bind" mode waiting for a bind signal from a transmitter.
Transmitters will have a "Bind" button. With receiver in bind mode switch on transmitter holding down the "Bind" button.
Transmitters will have channel reversing switches or adjustments in the settings for each channel. If you turn the wheel right and go left, reverse the steering channel.
Some transmitters will have End Point Adjusment (EPA) for channels and others will offer a Dual Rates for the steering channel to limit the end adjustment of the servo throw.
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Shock oil and pistons work together to control a car's damping, that is, its resistance to shock compression or extension. Those words may sound fancy, but think of it this way - the only thing keeping your car from sitting on the ground is four springs, and without damping your car would be bouncing all over the place on those springs. The shock oil and pistons slow down that bouncing effect, making it easier to drive and control the car.
Regular maintenance can mean different things to different people. For an RC racer this might mean a tear down and rebuild of the shocks after every race weekend, while for casual bashers it could be as simple as once every couple of months.
The viscosity of shock oil varies with the temperature, getting thicker in cold weather and thinner in hot weather. So, when racing in colder conditions than usual, you may need to use a lighter oil, or a heavier oil for hotter conditions. If the weather is dramatically different, you may need to change the viscosity by 10wt/100 cSt or even more.
RC oils rated 300 – 350cST generally fit general rc applications best. The best oil for this kind of setup would be a 338cST Racing silicone shock oil. With a viscous rating of 338cST, it is just right for RC cars that need very little damping. For rear 2WD wheels, opt for shock oils rated 250 – 350cST.
For oil, ATF (automatic transmission fluid) will work on rc shocks. I'm not sure about gear oil, but engine oil will eat away the rubber seal. motor oil will eat many of the plastic that are used in rc.